History
Two regions, one dessert.
Tiramisu was born in northeastern Italy, between the 1950s and the 1970s. Treviso and Friuli have been fighting over who invented it for decades, and today both have it on their lists of traditional products.
Treviso
Le Beccherie
At the restaurant of Ado and Alba Campeol, in Piazza Ancillotto, pastry chef Roberto “Loli” Linguanotto perfects the dessert between the late 1960s and the early 1970s. The dates change depending on who tells the story. According to the restaurant, it gets onto the menu in 1972.
Their recipe: yolks, sugar, mascarpone, ladyfingers, coffee and cocoa. No egg whites, no liquor.
or
Tolmezzo, Carnia
Albergo Roma
According to the book by Clara and Gigi Padovani, this is where Norma Pielli takes a dessert by Artusi and changes two things: mascarpone instead of butter, coffee instead of alchermes liqueur. A bill dated December 13, 1959 lists “2 tirami su.” The document belongs to the family, and no one has verified it independently.
Their recipe also uses whipped egg whites.
And Rorò, which side is it on?
With its whipped egg whites, Giacomo’s recipe is closer to the one from Tolmezzo. No liquor and no cream, just like both of them.
- The ’50s
At the Albergo Roma in Tolmezzo they serve a mascarpone dessert. The 1959 bill with “2 tirami su” is the oldest document to carry the name, according to the family that keeps it.
disputed
- 1969–1972
At Le Beccherie in Treviso, tiramisu as we know it is born. The sources say 1969, 1970 or the early 1970s. It has been on the menu since 1972.
different dates
- 1980
According to the De Mauro and Sabatini Coletti dictionaries, this is the year the word first appears.
- 1981
Food writer Giuseppe Maffioli describes the Beccherie dessert in the first issue of the magazine “Vin Veneto.” He writes that it was born “a little over ten years ago.”
- 1993
In “Sleepless in Seattle,” Tom Hanks asks what tiramisu is. By now the word is known around the world.
- 2015
In Gemona del Friuli, the biggest tiramisu in the Guinness World Records is made: 3,015 kilos.
- 2017
The Ministry adds tiramisu to the traditional agri-food products of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Veneto protests and threatens an appeal. In November, in Treviso, the first Tiramisù World Cup takes place.
- 2024
The “Tiramisù di Treviso” joins the traditional products of Veneto. Now there are two regions, and the contest is still on.
- 2026
In London, a 440-meter tiramisu enters the Guinness World Records: the longest ever.
A traditional agri-food product is not a trademark, nor a verdict on who invented it. It’s a list of foods that have been made the same way for at least 25 years.
Sources: Le Beccherie, La Cucina Italiana, Dissapore, C. and G. Padovani, “Tiramisù”, Gazzetta Ufficiale 2017, Gazzetta Ufficiale 2024, Guinness, AGI.